Even though sales of Tangail's iconic shawl, produced in both handlooms and powerlooms, have increased this winter, weavers and artisans are struggling to make expected profits due to the rising cost of production, especially the high price of yarn.
While demand has increased compared to last year, the higher costs of materials mean that shawls cannot be sold at higher prices, leaving weavers with narrow profit margins.
Tangail is known for its craftsmanship in producing fashionable shawls in various colours and designs. Popular types include Manipuri, Bangshal and Nayantara. The production of these shawls involves around 5,000 artisans from Delduar, Basail, and Nagarpur upazilas. Despite the demand, many artisans are finding it increasingly difficult to sustain themselves financially.
Artisans like Abdus Salam shared that while this year's sales are better due to the earlier onset of winter, profits remain low due to increased yarn prices.
Similarly, Shahar Ali, who has been in the profession for many years, said wages for making shawls have not risen in line with the increased cost of living, making it hard for artisans to support their families.
The rise of powerloom machines has further impacted traditional handloom weavers. While a powerloom machine can produce 10-20 shawls daily, an artisan working on a handloom can only produce 4-5, leading to reduced competitiveness.
Craftsman Moinal Hossain said many artisans are now forced to seek alternative livelihoods during the off-season.
On average, producing a single shawl costs Tk 250-350, and wholesalers add a profit margin of Tk 50-100. However, weavers often rely on loans to cover production costs. After repaying loans and interest, little profit remains, leaving many artisans in financial distress, they said.
Rabiul Islam, liaison officer of Tangail Basic Center of Bangladesh Tant Board, said the board is working for the development of the local handloom industry.
"On behalf of the board, the marginal weavers are given loan assistance from Tk 30,000 to Tk 1.5 lakh at five percent interest and powerloom machine weavers from Tk 50,000 to Tk 2.5 lakh without any deposit. They have to repay this loan in three years," he added.
